Dec 30 - Go fast pedal works!

I'm pretty excited bout this part.  I like to mash it a lot when I'm driving.  One of my favorite things in the world is an accelerator.  :-D  Always brings a smile to my face.  And this one is now in the books to work the throttle.  It's not got the final fastener hardware on it yet, but it does work and that's more important than pretty!  :-D

I've also gotten down to the last of the positioning of the vaporizer box (water to air intercooler) whichever you like to call it.  :-)  I think I should make a slightly premature shout out to frozenboost.com from whom I bought my unit.  It's a type 4 on their web site.  I haven't plumbed it all up yet to verify that it doesn't leak, etc., but the welds on it look very nice, so I suspect it's a good unit.  It has 1/2 NPT tapped ends on it so I can plumb up the heat to it.  :-)  Can't wait.  That'll be fun!

You can see the flex hose that connects the vaporizer to the intake elbow was still not trimmed yet in this image.  I've still got an inch I can lose off of that hose and it'll get me closer to my radiator hose from the water pump, and it'll give me more room over to the right where the elbow or 180 will go for the air filter to attach to. 

(my red T-shirt was reflecting in the vaporizer in this image)

I also need the room to the right as this is where I will mount my solitary fuel injector into the air stream.  So by the time it mists out and hits that intercooler (vaporizer) and it's heated, we'll get all fumes from that fuel.

If anyone has any experience making their own fuel rail for a fuel injector and can lead me a but I would appreciate it.  I'll be making the single injector thing next.  Well, next major fabrication job.  I've got smaller ones (some I've which I've done before and will have to re-do them now), the steering for example.  So that should go faster this time as I've done most of it before.  Always quicker second time around on the same job ya know. 

But yeah, I'm looking for folks who have actually made their own fuel rail, injector setup, the whole deal.  Thanks.

No arm chair quaterbacks need apply.  :-)

Parting shot:

Was thinking about trying to get my last chance at getting the power steering pump in the back, on the motor.  But this shot just proves I've got to give that up and move it to the front.  I'm just gonna spin it with an electric motor.  It'll be fine.  1 Horse I think it enough.  Constant RPM.  Unless I find out there is something to the rack behaving differently at varying speeds, then I'll look at it.  But I doubt that's the case on these PS units.  One less set of hoses to route from the front to the back then too.

:-)

Take care.

Enjoy!

Ya only go around once...

As far as most of us know...

:-)

Dec 24 - Clutch is good me thinks! On to the intake (for now)

I got an email back from V8 Archie.  Sounds like I'm good to go on my clutch.  He was saying that it being an open diff it'll give power to the one that isn't there (least resistance) and until I can put it on the ground with the axles in it, I won't know for sure about my clutch.  But based on what I do know about it already, I'm feeling 100% better about it.

Pics of the clutch master and line install.

For some of the other things that have been done or are in current stages of production.

I've got some shots of how it's starting to look for the intake, which I haven't completely decided just yet.  The water to air intercooler is the part that will become the fumes vaporizer box.  I'll plumb hot exhaust gases through it and back into the intake manifold (plenum), EGR style so that I can make fumes on demand.  I have a video explaining all of that if you want to see that or hadn't seen it yet.

 

 

The first way around makes for a tighter fit of everything, and I do like where the fuel injector would go in that case, but I don't know that I could route all of the cooling lines where they need to go and avoid some things with that vaporizer being in that position.

The second way makes for plenty of room of routing everything, but the fuel injector gets put into a position that I'm not too happy with.


I have the new intake elbow that needs a little metal clean up around it before final fitting.  I have the test position of the water pump and alternator hanging there to test fit for bracketry to be made if it all goes well.

You can also see a fitting location (typically for NOS) on the intake elbow, that will later be used for hydrogen injection.  Once that gets added my gasoline mpg will go anywhere form the hundreds of mpg to infinity as I could run on straight hydrogen at times.

Dec 23 - Clutch line is in now - my bad

So I talked to Justin over at TFS (The Fiero Store).  He told me that there is only the type 2 line sold any more as you can make a couple of bend adjustments to it and it'll work on the type 1 lines.  So I did that and got it installed.  Yay!  Thanks Justin!

Now on to the rest of the Fiero clutch saga...

So I've bled the master.  The line.  And got back to the 6 speed and it was looking good.  I got good pedal feel.  So I shifted the tranny into a gear and then bumped the starter over (no fuel) to see the output shaft turn.  Nothing.  I pressed the clutch pedal and released it a couple of times.  Nothing still.  Went back and pulled the bleeder out of the line and depressed the + shaped button on the connector that goes to the TO (throw out) bearing to release any extra pressure it may have holding the clutch in place of me.  Nothing there either.  It's not hooking up.  Of course I bled it again after that little stunt.  But if anything bad would have happened from that I may set myself into the normal thing that people complain about, nit the one where it won't hook up.

I see plenty of people talking about the opposite.  Where you press the pedal all the way in but can't get it to completely free up.  I definitely don't have this problem. So I've put an email out there to Archie of V8 Archie as he has done a ton of these.  I want to see if he's seen this before.  I'm at a loss for what to do next on this one.   I was wondering if there was a dust boot on the face of the TO bearing that I may have left in there?  I didn't remember seeing one.  Of course I took the one off of the splined input shaft to install the tranny.  I don't know.  I'll see what others have to say next and see what I may need to do.  If there is a dust boot over the face of the TO bearing I'll be feeling pretty crunchy.  AND have to drop the cradle separate the motor from tranny to find out.  That will suck!

Anyway.  Keep up the positive responses, it helps in nudging me along in times like these.

Thanks,
Coop

Dec 19 - disappointing clutch line

I was so happy to see my Classic Tube clutch line come in for my car!  I finally got around to trying to put it in today.  I've been waiting on it, as I wanted to allow the clutch to engage the transmission completely.  I wanted to shift the transmission into a gear and see the output shaft turning.  Being able to spin the oil in that brand new transmission.  But alas, no dice.

The line was a special order as it was for an 84~87 Fiero but with 11" added to the length in the back.  I got the old stuff out.  Line was rusted into 2 in one place.  The old clutch master was nasty.  So I got it out of there.  Cleaned up the nuts and studs for the old mounting point on the clutch master.  Got some anti-seize on the studs. 

Then the banjo on the new master didn't want to slide onto the bushing for the clutch pedal pin.  So I took a Dremel and a narrow diameter sanding drum to it.  Got that just big enough that it fits very nicely.  Added a little bit of 75w-90 to the bushing and slid the banjo onto it.

Then I went in pursuit of the new clutch line going on.  I was excited as I knew I was only moments away from being able to purge the clutch line and see this thing with the motor running and the clutch being operated to spin the tranny and then not.  But as I worked out the locations on everything, I was discovering an unsavory thought.  This pre-bent hard line matches up perfectly if I have the type 2 clutch master.  It isn't worth a shit because I have a type 1 clutch master.  I was very clear about which one I have.  I knew that the two are not interchangeable and would mean that I would wait even longer for this day to come.  I was really looking forward to what all I was going to be able to do over the holidays with this piece out of the way.

So now come Monday I'll be calling the Fiero Store back and letting them know about the screw up.  I'm glad the piece that I need to get exchanged is relatively short and shouldn't be too much of a deal.  We'll see what the response is like and hopefully it won't be a long wait for the replacement part.

I do have a strange thing going on in the back of the car where the end of the line and the connection to my transmission goes.  I will be looking for a coupler for my hard line connection to replace my short flex line piece.  That piece of flex line makes for too long of a reach between the hard line and the plug into the tranny.  I'll come up with something.  I always do.  I want the flex bit more than straight from hard line, but it would work out if it were directly connected too though.  We'll see.  I'll post pics once I get to where I'm ready to connect that bit.  You'll all see what I'm talking about.

Another chapter in the on-going saga of the Diablo build.  Take care y'all, it's a jungle out there.

-Coop